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This Month's Topic:
Paxon Kerry Blue Terrier

By: Aileen Santo
www.paxonkerryblues.com

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Some history of the breed:

The origin of the Kerry Blue Terrier is lost in the dim past. No one knows with any certainty how or when the breed was started. The best that can be done is to relate some of the legends about it and you may then decide for yourself what to believe.

One legend says that in the days when only the nobility in Ireland was permitted to hunt with the Irish Wolfhound, the peasantry developed the Kerry Blue Terrier for the purpose of poaching. There has been some speculation that the Irish Wolfhound was bred to the basic terrier breed in Ireland to produce the Kerry. But was that basic terrier the English Terrier, or the Irish Terrier, or the Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier, or an earlier terrier? You will have to guess. Manifestly, Irish peasants have, on occasion, used the Kerry Blue for poaching and for many other tasks. Breedings between Irish Wolfhounds and Kerries have been known, so the disparity in size between the two breeds does not bar this hypothesis.

Then there is the romantic legend of the Russian "Blue Dog"-a blue terrier that swam ashore from a Russian ship wrecked in Tralee Bay and was mated to local bitches to produce the Kerry Blue Terrier. Another version identifies the ship as one of those in the Spanish Armada. Who can say that this is the true origin-or that it is not?

Probably this much can definitely be accepted as fact: That the Kerry Blue Terrier, or Irish Blue Terrier, as he is called in Eire, has been known for well over one hundred years; that because of his gaminess, intelligence and adaptability as a hunting dog, as a herd dog, and a working dog, the Kerry Blue has every attribute an Irishman would seek in a dog. It seems reasonable to believe that the Irish kept the strain clear in this breed they admired so greatly. In fact, the Irish may have been the first to conduct dog-breeding on a systematic plan. In the Brehon laws, dating from the fifth century, there were enactments, relating to ownership, breeding, and welfare of dogs. Kerries are not now, and never were, very numerous in Ireland. They were found mostly in the mountains of Kerry around Lake Killarney. But they were more appreciated for their rarity by those who know the Kerry Blue Terrier.

In Ireland, the Irish Blue Terrier was first shown as a breed around 1916. Their good qualities soon attracted attention and by the 1920s, thirty to a class was common at the larger shows. Kerries were first shown in England at Cruft's Show in 1922, and four Kerries were exhibited in the miscellaneous classes at the Westminster Kennel Club Show in this country that same year. Two years later, in 1924, the breed was officially recognized and put on a championship rating by the American Kennel Club.

At shows in Eire, Kerries were shown untrimmed and in the rough, with the coat merely tidied up a bit. Probably the greatest impetus was given to the progress of the breed when they began to be trimmed as a terrier in England, then in this country and in Canada. Thus came the modern Kerry Blue Terrier as we know him.

Kerry Blue Terrier Standard

General Appearance
The typical Kerry Blue Terrier should be upstanding well knit and in good balance, showing a well-developed and muscular body with definite terrier style and character throughout. Correct coat and color are important. A low-slung Kerry is not typical.

Size, Proportion, Substance
The ideal Kerry should be 18 1Ú2 inches at the withers for a dog, slightly less for a bitch. In judging Kerries, a height of 18-191Ú2 inches for a dog, and 171Ú2-19 inches for a bitch, should be given primary preference. Only where the comparative superiority of a specimen outside of the ranges noted clearly justifies it should greater latitude be taken. In no case should it extend to a dog over 20 inches or under 171Ú2 inches, or to a bitch over 191Ú2 inches or under 17 inches. The minimum limits do not apply to puppies. The most desirable weight for a fully developed dog is from 33-40 pounds, bitches weighing proportionately less. A well-developed and muscular body. Legs moderately long with plenty of bone and muscle.

Head
Long, but not exaggerated, and in good proportion to the rest of the body. Well balanced. Eyes-Dark, small, not prominent, well placed and with a keen terrier expression. Anything approaching a yellow eye is very undesirable. Ears-V-shaped, small but not out of proportion to the size of the dog, of moderate thickness, carried forward close to the cheeks with the top of the folded ear slightly above the level of the skull. A "dead" ear, houndlike in appearance, is very undesirable. Skull-Flat, with very slight stop, of but moderate breadth between the ears, and narrowing very slightly to the eyes. Foreface full and well made up, not falling away appreciably below the eyes but moderately chiseled out to relieve the foreface from wedginess. Little apparent difference between the length of the skull and foreface. Jaws deep, strong and muscular. Cheeks-Clean and level, free from bumpiness. Nose-Black, nostrils large and wide. Teeth-Strong, white and either level or with the upper (incisors) teeth slightly overlapping the lower teeth. An undershot mouth should be strictly penalized.

Neck, Topline, Body
Neck-Clean and moderately long, gradually widening to the shoulders upon which it should be well set and carried proudly. Back short, strong and straight (i.e., level), with no appearance of slackness. Chest deep and of moderate breadth. Ribs fairly well sprung, deep rather than round. A slight tuck-up. Loin short and powerful. Tail should be set on high, of moderate length and carried gaily erect, the straighter the tail the better.

Forequarters
Shoulders fine, long and sloping, well laid back and well knit. The elbows hanging perpendicularly to the body and working clear of the side in movement. The forelegs should be straight from both front and side view. The pasterns short, straight and hardly noticeable. Feet should be strong, compact, fairly round and moderately small, with good depth of pad free from cracks, the toes arched, turned neither in nor out, with black toenails.

Hindquarters
Strong and muscular with full freedom of action, free from droop or crouch, the thighs long and powerful, stifles well bent and turned neither in nor out, hocks near the ground and, when viewed from behind, upright and parallel with each other, the dog standing well up on them.

Coat
Correct coat is important. It is to be soft, dense and wavy. A harsh, wire or bristle coat should be severely penalized. In show trim the body should be well covered but tidy, with the head (except for the whiskers) and the ears and cheeks clear.

Color
Color is important. The correct mature color is any shade of blue gray or gray blue from the deep slate to light blue gray, of a fairly uniform color throughout except that distinctly darker to black parts may appear on the muzzle, head, ears, tail and feet. Kerry color, in its process of "clearing" changes from an apparent black at birth to the mature gray blue or blue gray. The color passes through one or more transitions--involving a very dark blue (darker than deep slate), shades or tinges of brown, and mixtures of these, together with a progressive infiltration of the correct mature color. The time needed for this "clearing" process varies with each dog. Small white markings are permissible. Black on the muzzle, head, ears, tail and feet is permissible at any age. A black dog 18 months of age or older is never permissible in the show ring and is to be disqualified.

DISQUALIFICATION: A black dog 18 months of age or older is to be disqualified. (white markings on a black dog 18 months of age or older does not constitute clearing or mature color and the dog is to be disqualified.)

Gait
Full freedom of action. The elbows hanging perpendicularly to the body and working clear of the sides in movement; both forelegs and hind legs should move straight forward when traveling, the stifles turning neither in nor out.

Disqualifications
A black dog 18 months of age or older is to be disqualified. (white markings on a black dog 18 months of age or older does not constitute clearing or mature color and the dog is to be disqualified.)

The pros of owning a Kerry:

The Kerry is a striking dog, projecting nobility-and he knows it! Take him for a walk down Main Street and watch people turn admiringly in your direction. In fact, before you know it, complete strangers will "talk Kerry" to you.

But beauty is only skin deep. The Kerry's real values lie below the surface. Known in Ireland for some 130 years as the Irish Blue Terrier, Kerries were used as farm and herd dogs, as well as ratters and retrievers, on land and in the water. Without losing any of his early talents and hardiness, this rugged working terrier has been refined to become the sophisticated house pet of today-alert and intelligent, game but controlled, protective yet friendly-full of love and life. The late George Proctor once wrote in "Popular Dogs": "The Kerry is a human dog, a dog dedicated to the proposition that all mankind is a subject of adoration."

Your children will find him a gay, lovable inquisitive companion, always ready for play and armed with patience. Instinctively, the Kerry seems to know that children do get rough, and doesn't mind. Even during play he will be vigilant and act as guardian when necessary; for the Kerry is a watchdog "par excellence." By alerting the household to callers, yet calmly accepting them if you do, the Kerry demonstrates his sense of responsibility to his home. (Properly trained, there should be no unnecessary barking.)

The Kerry is a clean dog; he never sheds a hair and has no doggy odor. Because he does not shed, his coat requires extra care to keep neat. He is an ideal size for any home or apartment-compact, sturdy, just right! However because of his energy level, he is best suited for homes with a private yard.

One of the Kerry's outstanding characteristics is his wonderful sense of humor-with a touch of blarney. Breeders from the "auld sod" used to say that the Kerry communes with the "little people." After you and your Kerry have come to know each other, you will realize the empathy between the two of you-marvel at his uncanny intuition when in conscious clownishness he tries to brighten your darker hours. You and your Kerry will undoubtedly become a mutual admiration society. Again quoting the late George Proctor: "Once a Kerry convert, always a Kerry lover."

Trimming Your Kerry
The Kerry is drop-dead gorgeous when properly groomed. To keep this image, requires almost daily brushing, frequent bathing, and monthly trimming. Few dog groomers know how to properly scissor a Kerry. Often your Kerry may come back from the groomer looking like a Poodle or a Schnauzer.

You can however learn to do it yourself. Be prepared to spend a few hundred dollars on the right equipment. The learning curve that may stretch over several years. If you know of a Kerry groomer, or if you live close to your breeder, you are a step ahead.

Some cons:

"The Kerry just isn't everybody's dog - he's too smart for that. If you don't understand him or don't accept him as one of the family, then he just doesn't turn on that personality for which he is famous.

"To like a Kerry, you've first got to like the Irish, for a Kerry is very much a part of his native land. The only Irish custom I've so far not seen in the Kerry is the smoking of a clay pipe. He has all the other traits: the rare blarney humor, the facile wit and the blazing temper."

DON'T get a Kerryif you are attracted to the breed chiefly by its appearance. Behavior, temperament, and trainability are what you actually live with. Be sure that the Kerry personality truly suits your own personality and lifestyle.

DON'T get a Kerry if you are unwilling to spend time and money on frequent grooming. The no shedding Kerry coat demands thorough brushing and combing at least 15 minutes or more, 2 or more times a week, and professional trimming which can cost up to $65 or more.

DON'T get a Kerryif you aren't prepared or willing to learn to effectively handle a potentially dog-aggressive dog. Kerries don't back down when challenged by another dog, and therein lies a huge responsibility for its owner. This is not a breed for the faint of heart.

DON'T get a Kerry if you don't intend to train the dog. Basic obedience training is a MUST if your Kerry is to be a well-mannered companion. Kerries are independent thinkers, and often require imaginative training techniques.

DON'T get a Kerry if you are unable or unwilling to assert yourself as the undisputed boss of the household. Kerries are NOT submissive by nature; they tend to take advantage of wishy-washy non-alpha owners. You must be self-assured, consistent, and firm, as well as fair, calm, and kind.

DON'T get a Kerry if you dislike daily physical exercise. Kerries need exercise and the mental stimulation of a walk, jog, or run to keep them happy, healthy, and out of trouble.

DON'T get a Kerry if you are unwilling to share your house and life with a "shadow." Kerries are extremely people-oriented and will follow you everywhere. They are family-oriented house dogs-NOT outdoor dogs. (Actually, few dogs are happy if "exiled" from the house and family.)

DON'T get a Kerry if you work long or irregular hours or travel frequently. No dog deserves a life alone. Kerries thrive on love and attention and the security of a structured environment.

DON'T get a Kerry if you don't appreciate a high-energy intelligent dog. While not usually "hyperactive," Kerries are Alive with a capital A-both mentally and physically.

DON'T get a Kerry if you believe that dogs should run "free." No dog should run free and unsupervised, either in an urban or rural setting. Kerries were bred to flush out and kill its quarry-mice, rats, rabbits, and even fox and badgers--and that includes the squirrel or your neighbor's cat across a busy street.

DON'T get a Kerry if you can't afford to buy one, or pay for grooming, good-quality food, and veterinary care for the 10-15 years the dog may live.

DON'T get a Kerry if you already own a dog and are unwilling to provide the training and supervision that is often necessary to prevent fights.

DON'T get a Kerry if you own cats, birds, or small animals (such as rats, hamsters, or ferrets) and are unable to closely supervise the dog's behavior to safeguard these pets. Some Kerries consider them prey. If these animals are your children's pets, the children need to be supervised when playing with them in the presence of a Kerry.

DON'T get a Kerryif you are unwilling to commit yourself for the dog's entire lifetime. Every dog deserves lifetime loyalty from his owners-no matter what! A Kerry dumped at a pound or shelter has almost no chance of escaping death. Almost all problems can be solved through counseling and training of owner and dog. If you must place your Kerry, do so only through the dog's breeder, a Kerry Rescue group, or a Kerry Club.

DON'T buy a Kerry in a pet shop. Buy ONLY from a reputable breeder. Breeders will be there to answer questions & offer advice for the life of the dog. Pet shops will sell anyone a dog as long as they can pay for it.

CONCLUSION
If all of the preceding "bad news" about Kerries hasn't turned you away from the breed, then by all means begin investigating the "good news" about the breed. Kerries are every bit as wonderful and lovable as you have heard. It may be the perfect breed for you!

Breeder Box

This Month's Topic: Paxon Kerry Blue Terrier

Kerry Blue Terrier Standard

The pros of owning a Kerry:

Some cons:

This Month's Topic:
Paxon Kerry Blue Terrier